Tag Archives: Sørreisa

A Northern Greeting

I saw the Northern Lights from the plane. It’s the first time I’ve experienced this, but the pilot announced, just as we’d passed over Harstad, that he could see a great Aurora and that he was going to turn the cabin lights off so we could see. Apparently it was best on the left side, and I was on the right, but it was nice to see it. He also correctly predicted we wouldn’t see it after we landed in Tromsø due to cloud cover. The most amazing thing for me though, was that my friend Shirley was outside in Sorreisa watching the lights, when she saw my plane passing overhead. I wouldn’t actually arrive in Sørreisa until the evening after, but she was kind of with me before I even landed back on Norwegian soil.

Person standing with two dogs in a dimly lit residential driveway at night beneath a green-tinged sky.

It was deeply moving to arrive back. Because I lived in Norway for 15 years, it is somehow home, while quite different from the UK. The first thing I did, when I was through passport control, was to buy a hotdog wrapped in bacon. I didn’t apply the sauce very attractively, as you can see in the photo at the top of the page, but it was delicious.

After that, I caught a bus to get over to the Pingvin Hotel, where I was staying. The buses ran, reassuringly, until very late at night. There were signs like on the London Underground, telling me when the buses would arrive, and signs on the bus, telling me which stop was next, which made the whole process quite straightforward.

I had forgotten that the fast boat, that goes to Finnsnes from Tromsø and back, runs at different times at the weekends, so I was later getting to Shirley than I had thought, and will have to spend a night in Tromsø on the way back as well, but that is no great hardship. Staying in hotels up here has a wonderful familiarity about it too. I stayed away from home relatively often as a Veterinary Inspector. Triggering all those memories feels nice. Nobody does hygge/koselig like the Scandinavians.

Speaking of koselig, I had a lovely day in Tromsø.

Boats and research vessels moored in a harbor beneath mountain slopes and cloudy skies
Sailing boats moored in a harbor with colorful waterfront buildings at dusk

So now I am in Sørreisa. It’s wet and windy and dark for much of the day. There’s snow forecast for next week, but there’s nothing I have to do. Living alone, I have to make myself cook, but with Shirley and Kai here, I’ve cooked or baked something nearly every day. They’re vegetarian, which means I don’t centre the meals around meat. We’ve had season pudding (like crunchy stuffing) with roast parsnips and delectable mushroom gravy, made from wine and stock and cream. We’ve eaten stuffed tomatoes, filled with breadcrumbs, onions, herbs and cheese, then creamy mushroom pasta with garlic bread. Today we’re having pizza, but I will cook a lentil and tomato sauce, to make lasagne tomorrow. And yesterday, while Shirley was out, I baked a light, fat free walnut sponge, and filled it with cream, laced with coffee. Delicious.

Slice of layered cake topped with creamy frosting and a walnut on a patterned plate

I have visited old friends from work and hope to see more this week. I want to go do some shopping and maybe buy some Christmas presents. Today will unfold as every day does. Chatting over coffee. A walk with the dogs. Home for breakfast. Kai likes to watch Heartbeat every morning and I sit and watch it with him. It’s a nice, gentle start to the day.

I’ll leave you with some photos taken on our morning dog walks. When they’re not swathed in mist, the tops of the hills are already white, though the snow line is advancing and retreating. Today, we were skipping between rainy squalls and the distant sound was strewn with white horses. Thanks for reading and I hope you have a good week.

Red and green houses on a grassy hillside overlooking a fjord and misty mountains under a cloudy sky
Scenic view of a rural lakeside village and snow-dusted mountains framed by bare trees.

Stavanger til Sørreisa

It was lovely being back in Stavanger. As well as catching up with family, I also visited Wivek, who owns Triar’s mum, Trifli. Trifli had another litter three weeks before our visit and the puppies are now on their feet and getting adventurous! The last picture here is of Triar’s half sister, Kløver, who seems fascinated with all these new friends!

Stavanger looked beautiful under a clear blue sky. I have been very lucky with the weather, which is just as well as I couldn’t find my coat when I was packing. I thought I might have to buy a new one, but so far, I’ve got away with it!

I came north on Monday. The stunning approach to Bardufoss, with its deep blue sea and snowy mountain ranges was a wonderful start to my Northern odyssey and though it clouded over as we neared our destination, I was treated to the sight of a «glory» which is a rainbow-surrounded shadow cast by the plane onto the cloud cover.

I have been staying with my lovely friend, Shirley, for the past few days. I met Shirley just over a year ago on the fast boat to Tromsø. Hearing people speaking English in this remote area of Norway is rare enough that I turned round to speak to her and her visiting friend, Linda, and we’ve never looked back. Coming back was like returning to a home from home, not least because of the lovely dogs she and her husband Kai own. Here they are: Bailey at the front and Alva in the background.

It’s been interesting coming back. The snow melted on the lower ground quite early this year, but it’s a week or two too early for the incredible summer growth to begin. When I lived here, it always seemed like the least beautiful time of year, with its dead-looking plants and grass, but driving through the valleys, past snowy peaks and still-frozen lakes, it was easy to see the beauty in the landscape, despite the dust that covers the roadsides when all the winter snow has melted away.

We’ve had a wonderful week of cooking together and wine with dinner, as well as UK comfort TV, like Heartbeat and Judge John Deed. We went on a trip to Dyrøya on Wednesday and walked for an hour along a track above the fjord, with views over to the mountains of Senja to one side and rocky peaks to the other. There was even a sea eagle soaring in the blue sky, far above our heads.

On Friday, we went to Senjastua, a restaurant on the edge of Stavanger, which serves traditional and modern Norwegian food. I chose reindeer karbonader, which came with boiled potatoes and cream sauce. It was the perfect end to a very enjoyable week.

In an hour or so, I am heading north again on the fast boat to Tromsø, where I will be visiting John and Yoana for a few days. Have a good week all and thanks for reading!